Nature Vs. Culture

Today we're gonna get artsy fartsy, so strap in, shut up, and enjoy.  Thanh Chuong is a talented and famous Vietnamese lacquer artist.  He is also a great collector of everything that quintessentially represents Vietnam.

Just one of his many amazing works on display at the Viet Phu Thanh Chuong.

The Viet Phu Thanh Chuong (Thanh Chuong Viet Palace) is not an actual palace but rather a living, breathing museum, a layered labyrinth rich in historical artifacts and lush with natural beauty.  His ancient ceramics collection is enviable, but just as exciting is the manner in which it is exhibited.  Room after small room up a spiraling staircase showcases pottery and Buddhist statues in an intimate atmosphere that allows you to marvel at the grandiose without feeling overwhelmed by it.  At the top of this particular building (one of two dozen scattered about the large but closely-packed complex), two floors have archways leading to narrow porches, the view from which allows you to see the picturesque neighboring farm with a glistening lake behind in one direction and a breath-catching aerial overview of the Palace in the other.  The light from these archways illuminates the objects inside, giving each its own divine spotlight.  Having passed through the lower rooms laden with dust, the air in and around these upper rooms is sweet and crisp, and my lungs literally breathed a sigh of relief and glee for the fresh air filling them.

The ornate white structure houses the ceramics collection.

Farm and lake beyond.

Tower to the right. Can you spot the Buddha?

 
Greenery is tempered by the alternately extravagant and earthy structures that would seem to vie with their natural surroundings but somehow manage to have been adopted and absorbed into the ponds, trees, and flowers, through which towers, roofs and Buddhas peak.  There is layer upon layer of structures, alternating man- and nature-made beauties, that create a trifle of visual delight on which your eyes would like to gorge themselves.  But all these wonders are approachable with no panes of glass or roped stanchions to bar your way.  The structures should feel intrusive, but the whole complex is so organic, it seems as if the buildings have always been there and the plants have accepted their existence and learned to grow around them.

Roman playing a wooden fish bell.

The decorations on this archway are from the Cham, a society in central Vietnam that was greatly influenced by Indian culture.

  

A scrumptious trifle.

The theatre. Normally the benches would be turned to face each other to encourage conversation.

Through yet another archway lies a traditional thatch-roofed mud house.  It's got all the fixin's: benches and tea set in the main room for special occasions; low, mat-topped beds and wooden (wooden!) pillows; two rooms off to the sides for live-in grandparents.  This one even had a modern sink, but no glass in any of the windows.  Outside was a rice-grinding system, huge pots for storing water and fish sauce and various other liquids, tools, and an outdoor kitchen complete with fire pit and well (down which I managed not to fall).

Magical archway that transcends time and space.

Traditional house. The screen before the door is to keep out evil spirits, which can only travel in straight lines and can't turn or bend their route to enter through another door.

Roman demonstrating rice-pounding.

Tea time!

Roman modeling a raincoat...I told him he looks like a mutant porcupine.

It was incredible to be able to touch and feel history, to be able to breathe it in, hold it in my lungs and carry a small piece away with me.

Through one of the demon-repelling screens.

Water puppet theater! I can't wait to see a show!

Balancing these baskets is no easy task. Even the local women use their hands to help.

I got to see SUN for the second time in eight days! I basked like a sleepy cat.

So peaceful.

That night we went to the Tet party for the US Embassy at the American Club.  There were lots of performances, especially by the Vietnamese staff, with dancing, singing and a Lion Dance.  I almost met the American ambassador to Vietnam after he performed his rendition of Take Me Home, Country Road, but he informed us he had to "go take a piss" and sauntered off into the night.  It was pretty awesome.  I actually did meet a ton of Americans and a handful of locals, all of whom were very warm and friendly and had lots of tips at the ready.

Today's highlight: Thanh Chuong made a surprise appearance at Viet Phu!  Roman and I were nearing the end of our meandering and I looked down a path and there he was!

Thanh Chuong in the flesh!

I was completely awe-struck.  I didn't want to bother him, and Roman said he didn't really speak English, so I just admired from afar.  His wife Ngo Huong, a famous photographer herself and an acquaintance of Roman's, had accompanied him.  (I think Roman knows every fifth person in Hanoi.)  She came over to speak with us and asked if we were enjoying this masterpiece (my word, not hers), and was terribly gracious.  Talk about a power couple.