Of Monuments and Mai Tais

As I write this, I'm sipping a Mai Tai in a resort in Siem Reap, Cambodia, fifteen minutes away from Angkor Wat.  I tell you this, dear friends and family, not to make you jealous but to help paint a better picture of what a day today has been.

My lovely room at the Golden Banana with a balcony overlooking the pool. Aaaahhhhh.

We got up bright and early to catch a boat from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap.  It was five and a half hours, but I managed to sleep for three of them.  And when we arrived, our tuk tuk driver was waiting for us with a sign reading "Mr. Roman," ready to whisk us off to the Golden Banana to begin the next chapter of our Cambodian adventure.

It's too early for Kyle and Roman to be completely put together.

Heading north.

Tuk tuk = motorcylce-drawn carriage.

I've been put in charge of the daily itinerary, researching and being our guide through the forests, temples and cities of Angkor.  (Here, I'm referring to the larger site as Angkor and the temple as Angkor Wat, just to avoid any more confusion than I'm sure there already is.)  Angkor has monumental architecture dating from the eighth to the thirteenth centuries CE, all with Indic characteristics but each with little quirks that make it somehow unique. 

This map will be your best friend for the next four posts.
Learn it. Love it. Live it.

Today, we went along the northern side of the central area, then down to Bayon within the city of Angkor Thom.  Let's start with Ta Som, a relatively small temple with face towers, three concentric enclosures, and (once long ago) a moat.

FACE TOWERRRRR! These represent Brahma, with his four faces.

We got there mid-afternoon, so the light was soft and glowy.

Roman posing as an apsara, a celestial dancer commonly found in bas-reliefs. You'll see a good example down under Bayon.

I <3 RUINS.

Dvarapala (temple guardian).

We then tuk-tuk-ed our way west to the island temple of Neak Pean, the only one of its kind in Angkor.  Its modern name means "entwined serpents," but according to a stele at Preah Kahn (which we were unable to visit as it closed while we were driving by), its Khmer name means "The Fortune of the Kingdom."  We were fortunate enough to be visiting in one of the two months a year in which water surrounds the island and fills the four small ponds flanking it on all sides.  The water in the central pond made it particularly impressive, a Khmer jewel, and really helped weave the illusion of traveling into the past.

The main temple, reflecting in the pond.

Chillaxin' pond-side.

On the bottom right is a statue of Balaha, a mythical flying horse, who is here rescuing tradesmen from an island inhabited by an ogress.

One of the smaller flanking ponds...the water here's not quite so magical.

And finally, in place of Preah Kahn, we were swept away by our tuk tuk driver to Bayon.  Unfortunately, I was not expecting to visit that site today and was thus ill-prepared, so this will be mostly pictures and little corresponding information.  I know it was a state temple in the late twelfth century CE with a very complex plan and many amazing bas-reliefs of everyday Khmer life and its history.  Let us begin with our tuk tuk ride up to the main gate.

Impressive view from the east entrace, with very few people so late in the day.

The apsara, or celestial dancer, whom Roman was trying to emulate...I think he shouldn't quit his day job.

Devata, a female deity whose image is carved in sundry styles on temples throughout Angkor. When not flanked by dvarapalas, doorways frequently have a pair of these lovely ladies enhancing them.

Bas-relief, bitches! :)

Battle scene.

Part of an elephant procession.

More FACE TOWERS!!!

One of the "Libraries," not  used for storing books but rather as shrines. These are also a common feature of temple complexes at Angkor.

Corbelled vaulting!

We then had to call it quits as our light was failing, so we headed back to town for some dinner, drinks and more shopping.  I tried the local Angkor Beer (I prefer Tiger Beer) and picked up an adventurous straw hat for the rest of our excursions.

Tiger's clearly the heavy-weight. I'm only drinking these beers to procure bottlecaps for Cassie's collection...That's my story and I'm sticking to it. ;)

Fold-up fan hat? Not so much.

Now that's more like it for a Texas girl. :D

Today's highlight is a sense symphony.  Eating the sweetest pineapple in the world while climbing up to Bayon.  Hearing local melodies sing through the air in a cinematic overture while strolling towards Neak Pean.  Smelling jasmine winding its way on the wind while riding to Ta Som.  And of course, I can't forget tasting my Mai Tai on my tongue while tying a ribbon on today.

From Russia With Love [Updated 2/13/11]

I did some serious shopping today.  Like Olympic gold-winning shopping.  And only about half the stuff is mine.  The rest is from my generous heart for many of my near and dear.  (You may know who you are.)  Most of this took place at Phnom Penh's Russian Market, where Russians used to shop for necessary and superfluous items.  Not so many Russians anymore, but plenty of stalls selling fabric, "Rolexes," cheap *cough pirated cough* DVDS, Buddhist statues, wooden bowls, opium pipes...everything a girl could possibly need.

Silk in more than every color of the rainbow.

Opium jars to go with...

Opium pipes! Who wants in on a little Coleridge action? Does anyone get that reference?

Creepy puppets!

Scorpion juice! I didn't even want to know what it's for.

So I loaded up on cool Cambodian t-shirts, American DVDs, and silk...you know, to help stimulate the economy. 

And afterwards, Kyle and I paid a visit to the Royal Palace.  All I can tell you about it is that it's really a palace (and therefore royal) and friggin' amazing architecturally and horticulturally.  There were several temples, including a Silver Temple with silver tile floors and case upon case of silver Buddha and naga (a mythical snake, usually depicted as a cobra, with many heads that gave shelter to Buddha during his forty days of meditation) statuettes, and a gorgeous tiered display capped off with a jade Buddha.  The grounds were covered with lush plants, tended but with a wild, organic feel, in such vibrant colors.  I took way too many pictures, so here's just a little sampling to whet your appetite.  Also, Kyle was getting a smidge jealous that Roman's been in more posted pictures than him, so I'm including several of my uncle to mend his hurt feelings. ;)

This is just a gazebo. The temples are humongous.

Lots of monks were visiting the Palace and its temples. I even saw one take a digital camera out of his robe...Ah, to live in the twenty-first century.

Kyle with a naga.

I'm not quite sure how I got talked into taking this picture with these eerie mannequins.  At least none of them look like Kim Catrall...Does ANYONE get that reference???

Kyle in mid-sentence of explaining what this is. As an option (besides a screen) for keeping evil spirits out of your home, you use this to lure them away with flowers, food and other goodies.

With just one scene from the epic wall painting of the Ramayana stretched out along the portico of the palace grounds.

Stupa!

Kyle attempting to play a xylophone with this musical master.


In the late evening, after the blistering sun laid its head below the horizon, we walked along the riverfront and found some very interesting street food options on our way to real dinner.  But alas, the revelation of those exotic delicacies will have to wait for another time, as I have to get up in six hours to catch a boat to the Angkor region.  Angkor Wat this week, people!  Woo hoo!  [The revelation has now been made.  You may commence with the jubilation.]

Lotus seed pods.

The outer part is spongy, and you have to rip it open to get to the seed capsules. You then have to remove another, individual spongy layer, and then you get to the seed, which tastes decent.

The spotted things second from the left are quail eggs. The rest is bug.

Tarantulas on the left and, I think, snake on the right? If we hadn't been on our way to a nice dinner, and if these hadn't been sitting out in the sun on the street all day, I like to think I'd have tried something.

This is at the market in Siem Reap. The oddly-shaped things hanging at the top are filleted fish that has then been sliced into partial strips and, I think, dried.

These little stands were pretty popular in Siem Reap. They sell itty bitty shellfish, still alive and closed, covered in salt and spices.

The highlight for today was something you'd only see out here.  While on our way to the river, we passed by an elephant...walking down the street.  An elephant walking down the street!  What the hell do you say to that?