Better Late...

Wednesday was my last day volunteering at the Museum of Ethnology.  I've accomplished basically everything that they needed from me for the catalog for the new museum in the Dak Lak province, and Mrs. Thuong has promised to send me a copy when it's published in November...so I'll be waiting a while to see my name in print (as English Editor), but that just gives me more time to get excited about it.

Mrs. Thuong, Mrs. Vincente, and Mrs. Nicole.

I bid the spunky French ladies and dear Mrs. Thuong adieu and set foot in the museum for the first time.  Yes, I've been volunteering there for over three weeks but in an adjacent building.  This being the last time I'd make the schlep over there, I decided it was finally the right afternoon to peruse the collections at my leisure.  The building itself has an interesting crescent layout with two floors representing all of the fifty four ethnic minorities.

Atrium with pottery display.

I love me some pots!

Bike loaded down with fish baskets.

Wood block printing. It's done in layers, with each block used for one color.

Tay shamanic ritual tree.

Shaman initiation mask.

Hmong skirts.

Bark clothing.

Model of Jarai tomb.

Hoa Lion Dance costume.

Their collection is pretty impressive, and they use interesting display techniques to help you visualize the objects' use in the everyday lives of minorities.

Muong funeral.

Tay house.

Hmong weaving.

In remembrance of the twentieth anniversary of the first diagnosed case of HIV in Vietnam and to increase awareness, the museum also has a temporary exhibition on HIV and AIDS and its impact on the lives and culture of Vietnam.  It was pretty somber passing through, reading first-hand accounts of those both living and dead with the disease and seeing personal and medical items.  The whole thing was rather unsettling, but it reminded me that my uncle is here for a reason, and that's because there's a problem that needs a solution.

Pie chart representing the demographics of those with HIV. From largest to smallest: Drug Addicts/Injectors, "Other Subjects," Patients Suspected to be AIDS Patients, Tuberculosis Patients, Prostitutes, Unknown Reasons, Blood Donors.

Self-administered AIDS test, used by a man who tested positive.

Condom dress, just one of many created by The Flamboyant Club to raise safe sex awareness.

You could write a short blurb about your thoughts on AIDS and the exhibit.

Finally, there was a less morbid temporary exhibit that gives visitors a taste of what's to come with the museum's future permanent exhibit on Southeast Asia.  I liked the Indonesian glass paintings best.  My coulrophobic friends *cough Cassie cough* might want to skip the first photo.

Renowned clowns (in Java) that are apparently quite popular...and creepy.

Common Javanese dance of women, accompanied by instruments.

Wedding.

That evening I attempted to attend a lecture and demonstration by a famous Vietnamese medium, but by the time I got there it was standing room only for the lecture.  I decided to skip it and wander around the Hoan Kiem Lake area in the drizzle, enjoying the twilight hour and slightly calmer nature settling over the city due to the time and the weather.  It was here that I stumbled upon today's highlight, something I've been planning to experience since my first week but which fate deemed to happen today.  There is this locally famous ice cream shop at which one can just drive one's bike--pedal or motor--into the store, pick up one's ice cream, and drive back out.  A veritable drive-in.  So seeing this as my last chance, since it's in an area I rarely visit, I popped over and got the specialty that all the locals were ordering.  Imagine my surprise when, at my first lick, I discovered my apparent vanilla cone to be a delicious coconut concoction.  Perfect end to the kind of day that makes me not want to leave.

Ice cream drive-in.

Tet a Tete

Chuc mung nam moi! (Happy New Year!)

Upon our return from Cambodia on Saturday, we were greeted by a festive Hanoian atmosphere and some serious price gouging by airport taxis.  Like double what should have been charged.  To the extent that Kyle was asking for names and procuring evidence of fraudulence while loudly threatening to complain to a higher power.  But we swiftly put this negativity behind us and set out Sunday morning-ish for the Museum of Ethnology, which was holding a Tet celebration with traditional games and ethnic minority food.

Solid effort, Kyle.

The point is to try to swing as high as possible. It's traditionally done by a couple as a means to get to know one another while being chaperoned by the whole community.

These American guys really showed what's what.

This kid scored the only hole-in-one I witnessed. Kyle and I both sucked. :/

Making rice flour flowers.

This kid kicked ass at "stick-butting," an inverse of tug-o-war where you try to push the other person out of the circle.

Calligraphy.

Ink blocks. Kyle got one of a baby with a lobster because he says it's adorable...I'm still not convinced.

We didn't actually make it inside the building, which means I've been to the Museum three times, including volunteering, and still haven't managed to catch a single glimpse of their renowned exhibits.  But the museum grounds are filled with reproductions of ethnic houses from various groups, furnished with traditional housewares, at which mouth-watering snacks awaited us.  There were tonnnns of people there, so the pictures of the houses are generally from a week before when I went exploring one day after volunteering.

This one's my favorite. It's got its own aqueduct--swanky.

Entrance into the long house, over one hundred feet long. Yes, I used the right ladder, but I was very careful about my hand placement. ;)

Tall communal house.

This house was huge! Climbing twenty feet up the rustic ladder was fine, but figuring out how to make my way back down proved a bit trickier. I waited to watch how someone else fared then followed in suit when they made it safely down.

Parental discretion advised. This is an ethnic minority tomb. The sexual scenes aren't pornographic but rather represent the cycle of life.

These tombs also have carved weeping statues. This people comes from central Vietnam and have been highly influenced by Indonesia.

Stilt house, where the best food was served. :)

No food yet, but Kyle and I are enjoying our chopstick party.

Awesome! (Sorry, my vegetarian friends, but this smelled gooood.)

Delicious sausage. It went superbly with purple sticky rice.

The Ethnology Museum is one of the few places in Hanoi where you can take in a water puppet show.  We were fortunate enough to catch one today.  My favorites were the Dragons and Wizard Afraid of Ghost.  Check it out.

Dragons!

Monday morning was still a holiday, according to the U.S. embassy, so in continuance of our Tet-cation Kyle, Roman and I visited a supposedly haunted battlefield, now in the middle of Hanoi, on the anniversary of Vietnam's defeat of a Chinese army.  Alas, there were no Chinese ghosts in sight, but thousands of people in their Tet best came out to watch parades and dances, to eat sweets and snacks, and to buy balloons and rice flour figures.  I received a lovely purple rose molded from rice flour that has proceeded to harden to concrete.

The Vietnamese general who defeated the Chinese. He looks pretty hardcore.

Baby-sized balloons.

Rice flour figures! There were flowers, dragons and Power-Ranger-looking ninjas.

We finished up the day by visiting a nearby dinh (communal house) and pagoda to take part in some traditional ancestor worship and Buddhist ritual.  Burning fake money and papers with coins printed on them while thinking of your ancestors aids their prosperity in heaven and, hopefully, yours on Earth.  You then burn incense (in odd numbers and NEVER in fours, since that's the number of DEATH) and place the sticks in the incense holder before the pagoda entrance and at the stupas (small structures usually containing the remains of important Buddhist monks) while praying.

Burning fake money.

The stupas on which you place your incense...mine almost refused to light, but I managed to take part after some fire finagling.

It's been wonderful to see all of Hanoi in such high spirits with everyone smiling in their "Sunday best."  I'm very grateful I've been in Vietnam during the Tet season and have been able to have two New Years this time around.  Surely that's providential for next year.  So far my resolution of being stalwart and fearless in 2011 has been upheld more often than not.  Buddha willing, I'll keep it up. :)

Miss Adventure or Misadventure?

It's been a weird week.  Not bad, definitely not fantabulous, but weird.  My internship was put on hold this whole week...don't ask, because there's not much to tell.  Hopefully it'll pick back up after we get back from Cambodia.  (T-minus ten hours till our flight leaves!)  So I started volunteering at the Ethnology Museum on Wednesday.  I went with a worldly French woman who volunteers there and is, of course, a friend of Roman's.  Basically, all they're letting me do right now is edit the English sections of catalogs and artifact descriptions...not very glamorous, but then again I'm in Hanoi. ;)


I've had some serious transportation misadventures the second half of this week, partially because Tet is coming up and everyone's driving crazy and trying to extort money to pay for all their jubilation, and partially because I've attempted to conquer the bus system, a beast which, it seems, cannot be vanquished by the likes of me.


The Ethnology Museum is way out west, so it's a real schlep to get out there, and the first day I volunteered, I had to get back to our side of town on my own.  Being impatient and too timid, I climbed into a cab with a wildly rigged meter, and made him let me out at the corner of No and Where, begrudgingly handed him his ill-earned commission and swiftly bid him adieu.  I could have walked the rest of the way, but the street was SCARY, packed with stalls and people and vehicular dangers, and I soon found a xe om, the driver of which wanted a slightly exorbitant amount of money (of course) and then didn't want to let me use his extra helmet.  I was in no mood, and he could tell, so he quietly pocketed the money and handed over the helmet.  So that was Wednesday, saved only by the fact that Roman and I attended a Tet and Kitchen Gods party in which we ceremoniously released fish into the lake to take our kitchen reports up to the gods.

Mine was the pretty silver one in the bottom corner. :)

Thursday.  Oh, Thursday.  After spending a small fortune on transportation the day before, I thought, "Hey.  How hard can it be to figure out the bus system for a sprawling city in which all the signs are in Vietnamese?  I'm a college graduate.  This should be no big deal."  Ah, to be as young and naive as I was yesterday.  My morning was spent at Hoan Kiem Lake checking out the Ngoc Son Temple, dedicated to the Spirits of Literature.

Bridge over not-so-troubled-waters leading to the Temple.

The mountain represents a good foundation. The tower says "Writing on the clear blue sky," always be truthful.

Furnace used to burn offerings to ancestors. Poems are burned as well, as a respectful method of disposal.

Wave Stopping Pavilion, symbol of resistance against "waves" of foreign influence.

The parrot represents a legend in which a woman  in need of self-improvement was flanked by two parrots, who repeated all she said back to her, and therefore ensured her honesty.

I have absolutely no idea what's up with this guy, but he's pretty friggin' awesome.

If you don't already know, taxidermy totally wigs me out. But this giant soft-shelled turtle was pretty cool.

And then I had a leisurely lunch and did some serious present-shopping for some of you lovely readers.  (At least, you better be lovely readers or you might not be getting your presents.)  I should have had plenty of time to find my way to a bus stop to take me to the Ethnology Museum to volunteer that afternoon, but after lapping the lake twice (and this is seriously a lake, not some dinky fishing hole); feeling my feet begin to violently mutiny and mist settle on my cheeks; and with the distinct urge to throw a tantrum in my ever-increasing frustration at being stuck around this damn lake like a rat in a maze, knowing how to get out but somehow not managing to, I called it quits.  Bested by a bus.  Ugh.  So I took yet another xe om, this time with a driver who proceeded to immerse me in the most TERRIFYING fifteen minutes of my life.  I swear he must have had a death wish or, at the very least, homicidal tendencies.

We got one of these and one of the lanterns above for Ms. Madagascar.

 

So walking in the apartment door, I was done with 'Nam and all it's 'Nam-ness.  I drowned my sorrows in a bowl of pineapple and pampered my poor pedary paws and took a well-earned nap.  And when I awoke, the clouds didn't seem to darken the sky quite so much.  My spirits were lifted further by another visit to Hang Ma, the seasonal decorations street, where Kyle and I shopped for a Tet gift for our hostess in Cambodia next week.  Gold and red tinted the night air and gleamed out of the corner of my eye.  I finished the day with a viewing of The Maltese Falcon at the Cinematheque with beer in hand.

The highlight of the week needs a small introduction.  Hoan Kiem Lake is legendarily known for its giant turtles.  There's a story of a king who received a divine sword from the lake and used it to free Vietnam from Chinese rule.  After this accomplishment, a giant turtle retrieved the sword from the king while he was out on the lake one day.  These turtles are fairly rarely seen now, but if you spot one poking it's head out of the water, you're granted good luck.  Guess who saw one this week.  ;)